If Chanel is a lifestyle, Chance is an attitude.
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Category: Luxury
MIAMI — From Monaco to the Magic City.
Chanel touched down in Miami, Florida, this past weekend, staging a replica of its 2022 cruise collection, first seen last May in Monaco. Taking over the Faena hotel, models walked beachside while guests looked on from a cluster of chic red cabanas and two-tone parasols nestled on the white pebbled sand.
Held Friday night just as the sun was setting, the turquoise water and moody sky — there was a touch of rain as the models closed the show — served as a powerful backdrop, illuminating the collection inspired by the luxury and pop culture allure of the tiny European principality.
It’s been 14 years since Karl Lagerfeld staged a legendary runway show in Miami, and Virginie Viard, creative director of the French luxury brand since Lagerfeld’s death, returned with her latest cruise offering of sequined all-in-one mechanic’s overalls, crisp tennis whites and swimsuit-and-tight combos. Cruise collections are core to the DNA of the brand, having been invented by Coco Chanel in 1919 when she decided to showcase her line outside the Paris fashion schedule.
“It kind of reminds me of a time that I’ve never lived in, so suddenly, I feel nostalgic for high heelsFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
It’s hard to imagine Bottega Veneta, which last year surpassed the 1.6 billion euro mark and has reached global brand status, as a struggling, off-the-radar, near bankrupt leather goods label back in 2001 — and many may have forgotten that the acquisition of the brand was spearheaded by Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole, who were leading the then-Gucci Group.
Gucci Group Takes the Reigns
De Sole at the time revealed that Bottega Veneta had been at the top of the list of his acquisition targets, and with Ford, realized the brand’s strong heritage based on high-quality leather accessories and shoes and Italian craftsmanship had huge potential. He believed the brand could exponentially grow its revenues, which in 2000 amounted to approximately $50 million.
Ford did not get involved in the design of the collection, as he was taking over the over the design of the Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche rtw line, which Gucci Group acquired in November 1999. Instead, Tomas Maier was appointed to the role of creative director of Bottega Veneta.
Initially, Gucci Group bought a 66.67 percent stake in Bottega Veneta via a capital investment of $96.2 million and the purchase of shares from its stockholders for $60.6 million, forFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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2024 is shaping up to be the year of the horse girl. While Beyoncé’s foray into country music with “Cowboy Carter” helped spur an interest in Western styles, equestrian fashions of the English variety are also capturing the attention of designers and the TikTok set.
Models at Prada and Celine’s fall 2024 shows trotted down the runway in helmet-like headgear and riding boots, while Louis Vuitton and Isabel Marant doubled down on cowboy essentials like fringe and double denim.
On TikTok, “equestrian chic” and “English countryside chic” have emerged as two popular hashtags, with users styling outfits inspired by the off-duty wardrobes of the upper class: particularly, their well-established penchant for equestrian sports. This can be associated with the popularity of the “Old Money” aesthetic on the app, which seeks to emulate the styles of Gwyneth Paltrow, Princess Diana and Shiv Roy of “Succession,” among others, whose minimalist high-end wardrobes eschew ostentatious displays of wealth.
Meanwhile, celebrity equestrians such as Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Kacey Musgraves — who revealed a horse girl-approved Reformation capsule in September — have taken their favorite hobbyFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
If the latest Chanel haute couture in the Palais Garnier on Tuesday felt like a funeral that’s because it was. The house’s departing couturier Virginie Viard was not even in the opera house.
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The weather felt like Scotland, while the mood was very cool at the latest Chanel cruise runway show inspired by Le Corbusier and presented Thursday in Marseille.