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The first season under its new name, the American Collections Calendar marked New York’s second digital fashion season — and with an extended timeline. Designers like Tom Ford, Joseph Altuzarra, Michael Kors, Tory Burch and more are slated to show through April. Within the fall season, designers bridged the fine line between the mood of the current times — embracing cozy, work from home attire — and that of the brighter future ahead, with optimistic, exuberant designs.
Here, WWD breaks down the top seven trends from the American Collections week.
The biggest trend of NYFW? Knitwear. From sweater dresses and innovative statement knits to sweater vests and head-to-toe knit dressing, the fall season has it all. As seen here in Jonathan Simkhai’s cut-out number, 10 Crosby Derek Lam’s sweater vest and Ulla Johnson’s standout, asymmetrical cable knit dress.
From left: Jonathan Simkhai, 10 Crosby Derek Lam and Ulla Johnson.
Courtesy of the Brand
2. Edgy Winter Florals
Floral blooms with a darker edge were plentiful this season. Flowers popped up in moody tones, as seen at Prabal Gurung and Tanya Taylor, and with grunge attitude, seen here from R13.
From left: Prabal Gurung, R13 and Tanya Taylor.
Courtesy of the Brand
3. The ‘Bridgerton’ Effect
As seen during spring 2021
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Year founded: 2019
Design aesthetic: After-dark glamour: a focus on tailoring and modest dress with an edge.
Inspiration: A love letter to New York, inspired by founder Michelle Duncan’s time spent as a tourist in her own city. Over the holidays, Duncan took advantage of the pandemic-driven, tourist-less city to explore popular sites that she had never visited before. “Even though it’s quiet, this is the greatest city in the world,” she told WWD. Duncan interpreted this love into architectural lines, fine tailoring and a moody élan.
Key pieces: Tailored separates inspired by classic men’s wear, but fitted to accentuate the female form: an Italian gray overcoat, two new trousers (one wide-leg, high-waisted, the other cropped and with fishtail backs, a cropped blazer with signature bleeding heart embroidered decoration). The introduction of moody, deep black, velvet dresses for nights out — a dramatic, cupcake version or slinky body-hugging number with a sweetheart neckline and nipped waist. Updated pleated skirts and modest dresses zhuzhed up with metal grommets, elongated pleated collars and beaded embroideries.
A look from Duncan. Courtesy of Duncan
Courtesy of Duncan
Marcell von Berlin
Year founded: 2012
Design aesthetic: The label has offered modern streetwear and statement pieces with an urban edge since its inception in Berlin. Due to its celebrity
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