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Chrome Hearts Lays Off Most U.S. Retail Staff

Chrome Hearts, even with its luxe swashbuckling persona, is facing the economic realities of the coronavirus.
The Los Angeles-based luxury brand, known best for eccentric biker-themed jewelry and accessories favored by a long list of major celebrities, has permanently laid off 100 employees in the U.S., WWD has learned. The layoffs are thought to affect the majority of its retail employees in America. 
Sources recently noted that the ongoing closures of all “nonessential” retail stores in North America and Europe, where the company has nine and four stores, respectively, were undoubtedly affecting the brand financially — it has no online business to speak of. Chrome Hearts last week filed a required notice with the State of California disclosing the layoffs and categorizing them as “permanent.” Nearly all other companies that have filed worker layoff notices, including a number of retailers, have categorized them as “temporary.”
A spokeswoman for the company said the brand does plan to reopen the stores, but, as with other businesses, it is unclear when exactly that will happen.
“While the retail landscape is challenging at this time, we have full intentions to reopen all of our stores that have been impacted,” she said. “Obviously, we’re all standing by to hear

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Maxfield L.A. Launches E-commerce

It took a pandemic for legendary Los Angeles fashion boutique Maxfield to launch e-commerce for the first time in its 50-year history.
“We changed our computer system a year ago with the idea to go into online, and we probably would have rolled it out in the fall. But faced with the virus and having zero idea when we can reopen, we gathered all the assets we could get our hands on and went for it,” Maxfield buying director Sarah Stewart told WWD.
The site launched this week with a Casablanca for New Balance sneaker drop “that sold out in two minutes,” Stewart said, explaining that her team is uploading new men’s and women’s merchandise, jewelry, gifts and antique furniture photos about three times a week. The fashion assortment includes Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Maison Margiela, Rick Owens and Givenchy spring collection clothing, pieces from the Facetasm x Levi’s collaboration, as well as Maxfield’s edit of L.A. cool labels Amiri and Fear of God, and one-off exclusives, like a Jay Ahr hand-embroidered vintage 1969 Hermès Kelly bag for $55,000, a Mad reworked Rolex watch for $44,000 and a Rogue Bespoke roach clip for $3,895.
Stewart said the store’s loyal Instagram following (126,000) was a

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NFL Draft Picks Attempt Fashion Moments From Home

The NFL held the first round of its first virtual NFL Draft on Thursday night, which turned out to be history-making moments for young prospects and a showcase of home outfits.
The NFL Draft has often been a sports fashion affair, alongside the NBA All-Star Weekend, NBA Draft and the Espy Awards. But how do young prospects have a fashionable introduction to the pro football world when they’re stuck at home?
Some received help from brands including 2019 Heisman Trophy winner and Cincinnati Bengals draft pick Joe Burrow, who wore a Nike custom ‘740’ long sleeve T-shirt from his home in Athens, Ohio. Top prospect and Miami Dolphins pick Tua Tagovailoa opted for a custom suit by Richards Bespoke in Nashville that sported a lining featuring photos of his grandparents.
Others went casual, like Arizona Cardinals pick Isaiah Simmons, who wore a T-shirt bearing KAWS artwork (family members wore similar shirts). Former Alabama wide receiver and Las Vegas Raiders pick Henry Ruggs III opted not to dress up, appearing on TV in a bathrobe for a partnership with Old Spice.
The polar opposite was Jeff Okudah. The Detroit Lions pick wore a Thom Browne outfit for the NFL Draft, but it wasn’t the look

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Cartier Launches Three Watches, Designer Outlines Approach

TIME TALES: As the watch industry grapples with the challenge of launching new products during the coronavirus, Cartier is not skipping a beat, and — through a recently created online platform — is presenting three timepieces on Friday: a retooled Pasha, the Santos-Dumont and the Maillon, which carries a prominent new design. 
“Reading the time is secondary,” noted Marie-Laure Cérède, director of watchmaking for Cartier, explaining her approach to design for timepieces at the storied French label. It’s all about aesthetics, she added, pointing out that she generally doesn’t wear watches that are “on-time” — set to the proper time.
The luxury executive started her career at Cartier before a 12-year stint at Harry Winston where, as creative director, she moved the brand into jewelry watches and large complications. She returned to Cartier in 2017 as deputy director of watchmaking before rising to her current post, which she has held for three years.   
Reflecting the age-old struggle of the high-end watchmaking industry, that is, to draw on a house’s tradition while introducing fresh relevance for a current audience, Cérède describes it as paying homage to the brand’s legacy while introducing a new “vocabulary” for the future — at once daring, forward-looking but

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Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh Creates Exclusive Capsule for Tsum

Virgil Abloh, creative director of Off-White, wants a bigger slice of the Russian market.
Off-White has developed a capsule with Tsum, the Moscow department store, set to launch Saturday and sold exclusively at tsum.ru.
Tsum has carried Off-White’s mainline collections, but this is their first exclusive partnership. The capsule was developed in Abloh’s design studio in Milan and embraces the “spirit of the Nineties.”
Asked his impressions of Russian style and his inspiration behind the collection, Abloh said, “This community passionately embraces an eclectic style, that also happens to be very practical. There’s a lot of mixing and matching, the building of smart casual looks from luxury and vintage. Through this capsule I wanted to bring this concept to life. To me this way of dressing is so heavily linked to ‘the spirit of the Nineties’ — an era that gave us the building blocks of this current trend.”
For example, the women’s wear collection features a fitted, plunged-neck dress with exaggerated shoulder silhouette, an oversize hoodie, fitted Ts and track pants. A touch of metallic is added to bags to give a high-tech, industrial feel. Men’s wear staples include flannels, Ts and hoodies in shades of black and white, zip chain wallet and

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Maria Tash Offers Virtual Piercing Checkups During Lockdown

Maria Tash has been at the forefront of experiential jewelry retail. The piercing artist helped popularize luxury piercing jewelry made from precious metals and stones, opening stores that serve as both fine jewelry boutique and piercing salon.
Now that her six retail locations are closed due to coronavirus lockdowns, Tash is bringing her experience online. The jeweler has begun offering complimentary virtual piercing checkups, conducted via FaceTime and Google Hangouts. The appointments will be available in five languages: English, Spanish, French, Italian and Arabic.
The 15-minute time slots will match consumers with piercing artists to review healing, post size, jewelry changes and any other piercing-related questions.
“The recent launch of virtual piercing checkup technology provides us with a way to stay connected to our clients globally, and we can continue to be an expert resource for anyone with questions on piercing, healing, ring and post sizing, and aftercare,” Tash said in a statement.
“It’s a wonderful and rare opportunity to meet and speak with my senior, lead piercers from my stores around the world for complimentary advice…They give our piercers the opportunity to be creative, share their deep knowledge and inspire, as well as allay client piercing concerns while simultaneously fostering their vision for

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Fashion Girls for Humanity Launches Gowns for Good Made in America

DIRE DRESS CODES: Like many nonprofits, Fashion Girls for Humanity has redirected its focus to the global pandemic to help develop PPE — or personal protective equipment — goods.
The group has teamed with Fashion for the Front Lines to create two information hubs to highlight available resources, including downloadable patterns to make face masks and medical gowns. There is a list of hospitals and health-care facilities that are in need of donations or purchases of PPE. There is also information about companies producing PPE goods.
Fashion Girls for Humanity was started nine years ago by Julie Gilhart, Kikka Hanazawa, Miki Higasa and Tomoko Ogura. As part of the COVID-19 response, the group is helping Care + Wear, a leading resource for health-wear, by starting a campaign to raise funds for its Gowns for Good Made in America.
The group aims to raise $250,000 through its GoFundMe page. The initial plan is to produce about 5,000 gowns each week to start through a group of New York-based factories and then 10,000 each week once things get rolling. Each $25 donation allows for a gown to be donated to a frontline medical worker. As part of the Fashion Girls for Humanity effort, the gowns

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Photographer Chris Makos Sews Photos Just Like Andy Warhol Did

ALL SEWN UP: Art projects, baking, Marie Kondo-worthy cleaning — many started their days of self-isolation with lists of must-do activities that quickly dissolved into hours of Netflix and Instagram. But that was not the case with photographer Chris Makos. He recently reached into his memory banks and returned to sewing photographs, while squirreled away in his country studio.
Growing up watching his mother sew on her Italian Necchi sewing machine, Makos said he was always fascinated by how you could take two things and with just a bit of sewing make something new. After practicing the technique with paper as a boy, Makos started sewing together photographs in 1976.
A former studio assistant to Andy Warhol, Makos shared the technique with the Pop artist. Warhol bought a Bernina sewing machine to keep at it with the help of Makos’ friend Michele Loud, who sewed together most of the photographs. Warhol continued to make sewn photographs until his death in 1987.
Makos explained why he first shared the idea with Warhol: “He needed something new to do with his photos. I thought it would be a perfect fit, because Andy was all about multiples.”
Makos has stitched together various personalities including Man Ray, David

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Collection of 350 Geoffrey Beene Outfits Donated to Phoenix Art Museum

Before the coronavirus clamped down in America, New Yorker Patsy Tarr donated her prized collection of Geoffrey Beene to the Phoenix Art Museum. Speaking from quarantine in Miami, Tarr, who’s traded her signature designer duds for ath-leisure these days, said a roof leak at her East Hampton home, where she meticulously stored more than 350 garments in her attic for decades, cinched the decision. Her connection to the southwestern museum dates to 2009, when it exhibited nearly 40 of her most whimsical custom pieces, particularly jumpsuits and boleros, in “Geoffrey Beene: Trapeze.”
“Dennita Sewell, the curator, did such a nice job that I felt I owed her,” Tarr said.
Her level of devotion to a single designer is a rarity in fashion’s current fast-paced cycle. Tarr said it was even atypical in her circles back then. Their relationship began in 1979 when, in her words, “she threw herself upon him,” to concoct a no-nonsense wardrobe that could take her from motherhood duties by day to glamorous philanthropist by night without fully changing. He identified her circumstances as ideal for jumpsuits, which she wore for 20-odd years in every fabric and style, from wool with long sleeves to seersucker halters. Sans collars, these

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Francisco Costa Taps Bruno V. Roels for Creative Coalition Project

SEEING GREEN: Costa Brazil, the environmentally centered beauty brand launched by Francisco Costa, has passed the one-year mark and remains committed to its mission of helping people reconnect with the world in a sustainable way.
Costa recently helped another kind of mission as well by being the first interviewed guest on the April 17 launch of Mission Magazine’s #MissionTV on its Instagram.
As part of Costa Brazil’s efforts to protect the rainforests, the company started the Creative Coalition with Conservation International. Beyond saving trees, safeguarding acreage helps the well-being of tribespeople in the Amazon, whose health is at risk due to disease and foreign agents.
The new Creative Coalition project consists of a series of gelatin silver prints depicting palm trees photographed by Bruno V. Roels. As a result of Roel’s efforts, 80 acres of tropical rainforest, or about 20,000 trees, have been saved. The gelatin silver prints are made on fiber-based paper that has been coated with a light-sensitive emulsion.
Roels said he is working on a book that will be published by Art Paper Editions about his collection of palm-tree-related vintage postcards and photographs made in the European colonies between 1875 and 1935. “These cards and photographs were made by Europeans for Europeans

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